By Barry Neild, CNN
Lebanon, Kansas (CNN) — To find the very middle of America, you have to drive a long way — but it’s worth every undulating mile of blacktop.
It’s a journey that perfectly captures the dream of the American road trip. Wide-open highways stretch across vast acres of arable emptiness. Pit-stop towns crouch under towering skies. Lonely radio transmitters broadcast into the constantly shifting air.
What awaits you when you get there is surprising. Not some bombastic monument to the mighty nation that spreads out in all directions, but a modest set of landmarks and a sentiment so positive in a world of turmoil that it’ll stick with you all the way home.
The exact location of America’s center is open to debate. Metaphorically, “Middle America” covers the cultural experiences of more or less everyone living between New York and Los Angeles, or just the average American — whoever that may be.
Geographically, there are several contenders. Various formulations set down after Alaska and Hawaii were added to the mix in 1959 have the center hopping all over the Dakotas. But, as the US Department of the Interior dryly noted in a 1964 report: “There is no generally accepted definition of geographic center, and no completely satisfactory method for determining it.”
For decades, however, there was. Back near the start of the 20th century, when the United States was confined to 48 states stretching from sea to shining sea, enterprising experts at the US Coast and Geodetic Survey figured it out by the scientific method of cutting out a cardboard map of the country — and balancing it on the head of a pin to find its center of gravity.
That pivot point was in northern Kansas, just outside a town called Lebanon. And over the next half century, a place that raised the same corn, wheat and livestock as every other community for days in any direction, enjoyed a small and unexpected tourism boom.
A homecoming
There’s no easy way to get there, but the 260-mile drive west from Kansas City, the closest major population center, is a trip back in time. Past Topeka, I-70 passes a historical marker sign informing motorists that the next eight miles were the first section of interstate in the United States. Its 1956 opening kicked off President Dwight D. Eisenhower’s program to shrink America with highways.
If they were intended as a teaser for what was to come, those eight miles do the job. Kansas may have a reputation for being flat, but this section rises and falls in a straight line to the shimmering horizon. Above, depending on the day, the sky is stacked with impending weather, the meteorology changing faster than the 75 mph speed limit.
I-70 only takes you so far. The route dives deeper into the grid of country roads that cover rural Kansas, passing through the river town of Manhattan or “the Little Apple,” and then Clay Center — another mid-point, this one marking halfway between Los Angeles and New York.
Smaller communities fly by, with grain elevators, water towers, red-sided barns, shuttered Texaco gas stations and fields as far as the eye can see. For anyone who has long idealized the American heartlands, this feels like a homecoming.
There’s a classic US road trip attraction just short of the main event. In Cawker, about 25 minutes’ drive from the geographical center, a gazebo by the side of Route 24 shelters the unlikely spectacle that puts this tiny town on the m