By Joe Yogerst, CNN
Scattered across the Seto Inland Sea, the islands of the Geiyo archipelago have long been under the radar. Until 1999, that is, when the final link of the Shimanami Kaido highway opened, connecting Japan’s main island of Honshu to the island of Shikoku, passing through six small islands.
The planners had the foresight to create a 43-mile (70-kilometer) bicycle path that runs alongside the highway and over its many bridges, a path that has since evolved to become Japan’s most popular long-distance cycling route. And thanks to the islands’ many cultural attractions, diverse dining experiences and the addition of several high-end lodging options, the area now offers a wide range of experiences for all travelers.
“While the Shimanami Kaido is internationally known for cycling, the deeper appeal of the region lies in everyday island life shaped by the Seto Inland Sea,” says Daisuke Furubayashi, who helps run the WAKKA hotel, which also has an onsite café and cycling support center on Omishima Island.
“The sea here is characteristically calm, and the islands are home to small working fishing ports and long-established citrus farms. What often stands out to visitors is that tourism coexists with ordinary daily life.”
Located in the heart of the Geiyo Archipelago, about halfway along the highway and bike route, Omishima is the most convenient base for those wanting to spend multiple days in the islands and explore off the main drag. The island is home to several of the Shimanami route’s most iconic sites, including the spectacular Tatara Bridge.
“The islands are not theme-park destinations; they remain lived-in communities,” says Daisuke. “Beyond cycling, guests enjoy coastal walks, bridge viewpoints, small local eateries and cafés, seasonal citrus landscapes, and the slower rhythm that is increasingly rare in larger destinations.”
In search of the war god
Rising from the island’s coastal plain, trails wind through thick forest to the summit of Washigatama Mountain, Eboshi Rock and the Tateishi Observatory, with its panoramic views across the Inland Sea. The island also hosts the futuristic Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture, along with several art collections.
However, Omishima’s main claim to fame is the incredible Oyamazumi Shrine. Dedicated to the Shinto god of the mountains, sea and warfare, the complex was founded around the 7th century CE and is considered the protector shrine of all Japan. As a result, many Japanese shoguns and samurai visited the shrine to gain the war god’s approval and have their weapons blessed.
The Treasure Hall preserves many relics from those historic visits.
“Oyamazumi Shrine is home to a whopping 80% of Japan’s samurai-era gear that has been designated as National Treasures or National Important Cultural Assets,” says Beth Reiber, the author of several books on Japan and an official Visit Japan Ambassador.
“Donated through the centuries by warriors wishing to express gratitude for victorious battles, it’s an astonishing collection of swords, helmets and armor, seemingly in the middle of nowhere.”
Oyamazumi also boasts a camphor tree that’s believed to be around 2,600 years old and is an officially designated Japanese national natural treasure. According to legend, anyone who circles the gnarly giant three times (while holding their breath) will have their wishes granted.
Beyond Omishima
The next island down the chain, Hakata is one of the best places to take a dip in the Inland Sea, especially at wide, sandy Hakata Beach and secluded Okiura Beach.
From there, a colossal suspension bridge leaps across a strait to Oshima Island, home to the Read more