By Maggie Hiufu Wong, CNN
Every Friday night of his childhood, Kurt Evans and his mother would order cartons of Chinese takeout, the cardboard boxes filled to the brim with classics like shrimp lo mein, egg foo young, General Tso’s chicken and beef and broccoli.
After each meal the Philadelphia native, now in his late 30s, would crack open a fortune cookie, reading the tiny paper with its words of wisdom on one side and a string of lucky numbers on the other.
“You know, the lottery is very important in Black culture,” says Evans, recalling his earliest introduction to Chinese food.
Today, he’s on the other side of the counter as the chef-owner of Black Dragon, a Chinese takeout on Rodman Street in Philadelphia’s Southwest.
Behind its black-painted façade, with a bold red and gold logo inspired by the cult 1985 movie “The Last Dragon,” nothing inside is quite as it seems.
The egg rolls are stuffed with collard greens, the lo mein topped with gumbo and a sweet and spicy chicken dish is named General Roscoe’s Chicken, after Roscoe Robinson Jr., the US Army’s first Black four-star general.
“Our tagline is Black American Chinese food. I do that on purpose — to start a conversation,” says Evans, who has been combining cooking with activism for years, earning him the Champion of Change award from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2021.
This commitment extends to the messages inside his fortune cookies, many of which he writes himself.
Like many US city neighborhoods, Evans’ community once teemed with independent Chinese takeouts. But over the decades, they began to shutter their doors as the younger generations in the family-owned shops moved on.
In 2024, he took over one of those empty storefronts and opened his takeout restaurant, serving American Chinese food seasoned with the flavors of his roots.
Among Black Dragon’s most-beloved conversation starters are the fortune cookies, which are filled with the wit and wisdom of the Black community.
“I wanted to be culturally relevant with the food and the people I was serving,” says Evans.
The chef wrote around 40 sayings and gathered more from his Instagram followers.
His favorite? A line passed down from his mother: “I brought you into this world, and I could take you out.”
“My mom said that a lot,” he laughs. “Everyone I know grew up hearing some version of that.”
Who actually invented the fortune cookie?
Black Dragon’s fortune cookies celebrate a fusion of communities, but the crunchy treats carry more history than most diners realize. They didn’t come from China, and likely not even from Chinese American restaurants.
Most research points to Japan, according to Yasuko Nakamachi. The Japanese author has been fascinated with fortune cookies since 1990, when she was a student traveling in New York, and cracked one open after a meal in a local Chinese joint.
The message described her perfectly: “You are someone who finds beauty in small things that others do not notice.”
It was a memory she returned to after stumbling on a book on the history of Japanese sweets, in which she saw something familiar: New Year’s sweets made from rice dough with written fortunes. Known as tsujiura gashi, or fortune-telling confections, these came from Kanazawa, a city in Japan’s Ishikawa prefecture.
She also found an illustration from Japan’s Edo period, between 1603 and 1868, showing a vendor making folded senbei — almost identical to modern fortune cookies.
The discoveries confirmed her suspicion: Japan has been making fortune cookies for hundreds of years.
Various forms of fortune-telling snacks still exist in Japan today. Centuries ago, however, they were likely reserved for the upper class — mainly because few c