Story by Francesca Street. Video by Max Burnell
(CNN) — Niki Ghofranian surveyed the view from atop the stone walls of Dunstaffnage Castle, hoping, against the odds, to find a way out.
The walls stood some 60 feet above the grass below. Jumping would be ill-advised, perhaps fatal.
In the distance: hills, lochs, islands. Nearby: forest, greenery, water. Not a person in sight.
The views were undeniably beautiful. Breathtaking — the picture-perfect Scottish landscape that American tourist Niki had always dreamed of seeing.
“There are worse places to be trapped,” she thought to herself.
It was after hours. The 14th-century gate was padlocked shut. And Niki and her sister Ritta Nielsen were stuck in a Scottish castle.
An unforgettable trip
It was June 5, 2019, and Niki and Ritta were on a special vacation to mark their birthdays — Niki’s 55th and Ritta’s 66th. The symmetry felt worth celebrating.
“We thought, ‘Okay, let’s do something spectacular,’” Niki tells CNN Travel today.
The two had always wanted to go to Scotland.
“We have Scottish blood in us from our mom’s side,” explains Niki.
They’d long daydreamed about seeing rolling hills, dramatic lochs and imposing mountains. And, of course, Scotland’s array of ancient castles.
They arrived in Oban, in the west of Scotland, excited to explore Dunstaffnage Castle. Parts of the fortress date back to the 13th century. Once the stronghold of the MacDougall clan, the castle was captured by warrior king Robert the Bruce in 1308. In the 18th century, young Scotswoman Flora MacDonald was held at Dunstaffnage for aiding in the escape of Bonnie Prince Charlie.
Today, it’s all imposing stone walls, ruined turrets and formidable views over the water. One section is covered up, but it’s largely open to the elements.
“It was beautiful ruins,” says Nikki.
“When you approach the castle, it’s sitting on this huge mound of a rock,” says Ritta. “It’s very imposing looking.”
The sisters arrived by taxi mid-afternoon — later than planned, but Scotland’s known for its long summer daylight. The day still seemed to stretch ahead of them.
They stood outside for a moment or two, admiring the first glimpse of the castle standing over the water. Then they headed to the visitor center to buy tickets.
“It’s about 150 yards or so away from the actual castle itself,” recalls Niki. “When we walked in, the woman told us about the castle, and she took our money, and then she says, ‘We close at six.’”
It was about 4 p.m. Plenty of time.
“And I’m an American,” says Niki. “When places close here, they tell you they’re closed. They don’t just close.”
Entering the grounds, Niki and Ritta were blown away. History visible on every surface.
“Niki marched along the battlements with iPhone in hand, posting and envisioning a history she had read about, while I searched every nook and cranny,” recalls Ritta. “God, what a stunning structure!”
Time seemed to stand still. The two sisters had Dunstaffnage more or less to themselves.
After a while the two separated – Ritta heading outside of the castle walls to take photographs of the exterior, Niki climbing onto the ramparts. She stood there, taking in the choppy water and hills. There was no one else around, no noise, beyond the wind and water lapping in the loch.
“It was very peaceful and beautiful,” says Niki.
Niki exhaled, taking in the tranquility. Then, the silence was interrupted.
“All of a sudden I hear Ritta yelling at me,” she recalls.
‘We had made a blunder’
Ritta had wandered over to the castle entrance, tried the enormous door and realized the gate was shut.
Not just shut — “locked, with an impressive bolt system.”
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